The Pennine Way Day 9 - Middleton in Teesdale to Dufton 2 April 2011.

The Pennine Way - Day 9
Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton
Distance 36km Climb 560m
Saturday 2nd April 2011

Two for one Britain's Favourite Walks shown on ITV January 2018.  Number 34 High Force and Number 30 High Cup Nick.

I woke up early to the sound of rain on the outside of my tent.  So instead of lying there listening to the pitter patter of rain I decided to get up and move on.  I had originally thought about waiting until 10.00, when the cafe opened but then thought another two hours of this I am better off up and walking.

Leaving the campsite I headed back towards the town and followed the sign before you get to the bridge, in a North Westerly direction.  In places The Way follows very close to the river Tees.  Moving by the river the rain stopped and the weather started to clear a little.

What a load of bull

At Wynch Bridge there was a group of people on the far bank near Low Force wearing wet suits, or were they dry suits, I cannot remember how they work.  Anyway they were standing and practicing throwing bags of ropes at each other.  They looked like they were either pot holing or the hobby where you jump down waterfalls and follow the stream down hill, could have been water safety skills.  Anyway I didn't wait to find out what they were going to do.  

Low Force

Wynch Bridge

At High Force I met some lads from Newcastle.  One said he had done the Pennine Way a number of years ago and had said he had stayed at one of the farms further up the valley.  When asked how far I was going that day, when I said Dufton, one even said I would not get there in a day.  Just you wait and see.

High Force

Looking down on High Force

After passing this group I quickly moved along The Way.  The ground opened up a little as it followed close to the route of the river.  I crossed the Tees and turned left, after another km I reached a junction on The Way.  I could either turn right to the youth hostel, left to continue on The Way or go straight ahead to Langdale Beck or hopefully get some food from the pub.  As I had missed breakfast I decided to go straight ahead to Langdale Beck.  As I crossed the stream I was followed by a big barking dog.  Nothing to worry about he just walked behind and barked.

Anyway after a rest and a good lunch I picked up my kit again and set off back down the route I had taken to Langdale Beck to rejoin The Way back at the junction.

This time the big barking dog had got some reinforcements in the shape of a small dog who although not so big, jumped and barked loudly.  This time with the advantage of numbers the big dog was braver.  He would get closer and I am sure they were egging each other on.  They were almost constantly at me, a couple of times I am sure they jumped at my bag on my back intending to knock me over.  No one was around to call them off, and any owner would have heard them as the noise could have been heard from miles away.  So I am sure it was all for someone’s entertainment.  It was only when I moved further out of the area did they eventually leave me alone.

The Way now travels West and again follows the side of the Tees.  I had been having some trouble with my ankles and feet and knees for some days now.  But it was along here it became really uncomfortable.  I had to stop a few times and give my feet, ankles and legs a rub.  It was taking a lot of effort to keep myself motivated.  My will power and self esteem was very low.  It was only the monster in my head that would not let me pack in.  I gritted my teeth and carried on.

I had read in my guide about Falcon Clints.  Especially about crossing the big awkward boulders some right on the waters edge.  Clambering across this area soon took my mind of my ankles and feet.

As I came off the last of the boulders I saw a family walking the other way.  We stopped and talked awhile.  They mentioned the peregrines in the area and I told them what I had heard about the climbers in Malham Cove disturbing their nests.  The man said Newcastle was full of peregrines and there was nothing to worry about.  One of the kids went on to tell me about the rocks in the area, all very interesting.

I could hear Cauldron Snout before I turned the corner and saw it.  I think I was more impressed with the Snout than High Force.  This may be because I was looking at it from below and climbing up right next to the Snout and with High Force I had been on a well worn man made track, looking down on it.

Caldron Spout

By the time I reached the road at the top and saw Cow Green Reservoir I needed a rest.

Cow Green Reservoir

The Way levels off for awhile, still heading West along a track to Birkdale.  Soon after Birkdale the track becomes a grass path.  The ground had turned into open moorland, and in the sunlight it was beautiful.

I crossed the footbridge over Maize Beck and thought about stopping, again the monster in my head would not let me so I carried on moving Westward, towards High Cup Nick.  I had only recently seen pictures of High Cup Nick and thought they were stunning so I was really looking forward to seeing it for myself.  The wind blew freshly up the Nick as I looked over the fantastic vista.  I was not disappointed.  

High Cup Nick

High Cup Nick

I followed The Way around the Northerly edge of High Cup Nick amazed at the views and eventually followed the path down into Dufton just as it was turning dark. 

Dufton in the distance

When I arrived at Grandie Caravan Park I literally threw up the tent and ran to the Stag Inn for some food.  I just made it in time.

I had been walking approx 11 ½ hours and covered 36 km with approx 560m of climb. 

More to follow.


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Pennine Way or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 8 Tan Hill Inn to Middleton-in-Teesdale
Follow link to next - Day 10 Dufton to Alston
Follow link to another walk at Cow Green Reservoir