The Pennine Way Day 5 - Gargrave to Grid SD 853 722 29 March 2011.

The Pennine Way - Day 5
Gargrave to Grid SD 853 722
Distance 27km Climb 760m
Tuesday 29th March 2011

Malham, number 3 on ITV's Britain's Favourite Walks shown January 2018.

I was having a lazy day which I may regret later.  The plan was to have breakfast in Gargrave, take things easy today I was not going to rush to Horton-in Ribblesdale.  I know it sounds like all I was interested in was where am I going to eat and where will I sleep.  To me these are major and important decisions.  You cannot do anything like this without food and rest, so if it looks like I am being driven by this then I am sorry.

I had a really good breakfast at the Dalesman Cafe, it soon filled up with cyclists all in the tight cycling shorts and tops some even had the caps.  Not one of them must have been under 65, some looked a lot older, some had problems walking but they could not half peddle their bikes.  I thought to myself good on them, I hope I am still able to get out and about when I am older.  Sore feet and aching muscles withstanding.

It was about 10.45 when I finally picked up the bag and started walking again.  There is a strange satisfaction in arriving somewhere at night, getting a good night sleep, food, and then packing up and moving off without causing a fuss unnoticed.

The campsite was across the river so I followed The Way along the country lane North Westerly before starting a gentle climb across open fields.  Being close to spot height 206 I added this to my spot height collection.

The day had started damp and wet as I left Gargrave but had dried out and was turning into a nice day by the time I reached Malham.  I should say again if I have not already mentioned that the Cicerone Guide on the Pennine Way by Paddy Dillon is brilliant, as he takes you step by step, style by gate along The Way.

On reaching Malham as usual my first thought turned to food. So I had a nice meal at The Last Buck.  I did think of asking does the buck stop here but thought they may have heard it a few times already so decided against asking.

The only wild life I saw in Malham's Cove

Climbers at Malham Cove

Sun was shining as I headed towards the famous Malham Cove.  Inside The Last Buck were photos of peregrines and other wildlife taken at the Cove and they looked fantastic.  I must admit I had never heard of the Cove before I planned to do The Way but when I saw it I thought it was amazing.  Someone said or it may have been wrote on a sign that in the past, millions of years ago, it would have been bigger than Niagara Falls.

Climbers were climbing on the Cove as I approached, and I was looking to see some wildlife, instead I passed a school group going down the steps as I was going up.  The leaders were trying to point things of interest out to the youngsters but all some appeared to be interested in was games on their phones.  Not to worry I have found it is only as I have become older I have found such things of interest, more than I did when I was younger so no doubt it may also come to them.  At the top the view was stunning and I met a couple who were concerned about the peregrine nests being disturbed by the climbers.

After a short rest I continued, The Way continues North through stone walls and little valleys before opening out and I was looking at Malham Tarn. The Way takes you on the East side of the Tarn before turning North after the Malham Tarn Centre which was full of students, through an area of woodland.  Again the views across the Tarn were breathtaking.

Magical Malham Tarn

Magical Malham Tarn

Malham Tarn

Leaving the Tarn and the woodland behind I moved through an area that was really peaceful.  The sun was shining, birds singing it was a place I felt as I was tired I would like to stop.  Then the monster in my head started, I still had a couple of hours of day light so moved on.  The Way, now after a short climb contours North before climbing North Westerly towards Fountains Fell.  There was a further short sharp climb before the path levels off for a short while before starting to descend.  I had been here before but could not remember when or who with?

Fountains Fell

On the steep descent I passed a family group heading up, they all looked very happy and were not concerned about the fading light.  I had timed it almost perfect so that as I reached the road and had found a little dip in which to pitch my tent, the light faded.  The family were still on the hill, it must have been an hour later I heard them coming back down all shouting, giggling waving torches and having a really good time.  It was then I thought that I had seen one of the group on telly, I am sure he was a famous climber and explorer, but that may have been just wishful thinking.

Anyway here I was in view of Pen-y-ghent.  I had met some really nice people through the day.  I measured where I was in relation to the book I was over half way through day 7.

Walking time 9 hours approx. 27km covered with approx. 760m climb.

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Pennine Way or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 4 Grid 967 334 to Gargrave
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