The Pennine Way Day 7 - Hawes to Tan Hill Inn 31 March 2011.

The Pennine Way  - Day 7
Hawes to Tan Hill Inn
Distance 27.5km Climb 800m
Thursday 31st March 2011

Today was a day full of highs and lows.  After a full breakfast in the Queens Head I was on my way again.  The Way heading North, takes you over the railway near to the station and standing at the station was an old steam train.  It must be there all the time as it is the same train as in the picture in the guide.  

Hawes Train Station

I continued North for a short while before turning North West.  As I left Hawes it was raining again and I could feel the wind picking up.  The thing about the rain is that it has brought out all the vivid colours in my photos.  

Getting to Great Sumner although high physically was a low emotional point.  On the path I passed a couple coming back down the track.  They had warned me of the very high winds on the path further up and they had been that wary they had turned back and come down.  They had suggested I turned around and also came back down.  However I could hear the monster in my head telling me to go on.  Although windy between the walls it was quite sheltered.  It was as I moved from the shelter of the walls I felt the full force of the wind.  

What a struggle but I could not stop.  Not only the monster in my head pushing me on, I also did not have the time to wait about, I needed to move on.  At least 4 times the wind blew me over and in places I was crawling on my hands and knees.  I worried about my tent that was tied to my bag, but could not find it in me or a shelter to stop and check.  I just wanted to move on and move out of the wind.  I knew if I lost my tent I would have to come back but did not have any desire to do that and because of the struggle did not care.  I just thought to myself if I lost the tent I would spend every night at a B&B.  When on my knees I found I was praying for the strength to continue.  I was finding it hard.

Once at the top, there was a shelter in the form of a stone cross, so as I was getting my breath I checked my kit. My tent was hanging off but fortunately still tied to my bag.  I had a drink of water and looked for a view. In the guide book it says the view is remarkably extensive.  Apparently you can see for miles all the fells and peaks miles and miles away.  I couldn't even see as far as the fence less than a couple of meters away.

A Remarkable extensive view from Great Sumner

Another extensive view from Great Sumner

(I have had to remove the video as it no longer plays.)

The trip down the other side was not as bad, once off the tops it was if the wind had died although still misty for most of the way down.  The wet had made the path slippery in places.  The sky cleared and for a time the sun came out.  

I stopped at Thwaite for soup and a snack, and I was glad of the rest.  I talked to a couple from London who where up visiting their daughter who after a short visit to the area had decided to leave the big city and packed everything up and move here for good.  They could see why.

I followed the path East up to Kisdon, before levelling out and travelling North.  It then turns North West to drop down to the stream at Keld. After passing some steep gorges.

Part of Catrake Force

Another part of Catrake Force

A quick drink of water near Catrake Force, an interesting waterfall.  Then onward, The Way then moves North over open moorland for a number of km’s.  

Open moorland on the way to the Tan Hill Inn

Tan Hill Inn, just as the sign says

Arriving at The Tan Hill Inn after the day I have had was an experience.  On the door there was a sign saying it was closed due to a chimney fire.  Closed I thought, I could see people moving about inside so I tried the handle.  As I walked over the threshold I was immediately confronted by Tracy who said before I even could say hello that I had two choices.  They were going for a meal in Barnard Castle and I could go with them or I could **** ***.  Well really I only ever had one choice, I had to go with them for a meal.  I confessed to being a bit smelly, no worry they were going now, so no waiting.  It was great.  A couple who had also been booked in were also coming so all the staff, the two guests and me piled into a few cars and off we went.

It turned out that they had spent all day cleaning the place up.  Moving stock and furniture from the smoke damaged room.  Then washing and cleaning the stock, furniture, walls, ceilings, floors and everything. 

After the meal when we returned to the Tan Hill Inn, Tracy suggested due to the wind and rain outside I could stop in their bunk room.  Also if I wanted she would wash and dry my clothes as I smelled.  Brilliant.  The room I stayed in was at the back and I remembered seeing Tan Hill Inn in the Everest double glazing advert.  What they don't say in the advert is that Everest only replaced the windows in the rooms at the front.  I only say this, as the windows in the room I stayed shacked and rattled all night.  At least I was out of the wind and rain. Tracy was brilliant.

I had started walking at 09.45 and finish at 19.00 so walked about 9hrs and covered 27 ½ km with approx 800m climb.

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

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Follow link to previous - Day 6 Grid SD 853 722 to Hawes
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