The Cape Wrath Trail - Day 8
Dundonnell to Knockdamph Bothy
Distance 31km Climb 500m
Saturday 17th April 2010
I had a good breakfast at the Hotel and a good start to the day, it was still raining but not as bad as the previous evening. I also took the Hotel up on its offer of a packed lunch. So I set off back down the road I had travelled up late the previous afternoon. On the previous afternoon I had identified the track I would be taking this morning that crossed a stream and travelled East along a track over open moor land towards Croftown. Throughout the morning there were a few times when the weather eased a little and some when it became worse, there was even a few minutes when the sun came out, but this was not for long.
At Croftown I continued East along a road which joined the main road A835.
Turning left (North) along the main road I travelled just over 1 km before turning right (East) onto a forest track. The forest track follows a stream and I crossed the stream over the first bridge on the track and continue travelling East with the stream now on my right hand side. As the track turns Northwards I found a small faded track through the trees that zig zag up a steep hill to a gate on the North side of the forest. Near the gate was an oar from a rowing boat, strange as this was a place not close to any water deep enough to row a boat. Someone must have carried this here, what must be at least a good couple of miles.
Turning left (North) along the main road I travelled just over 1 km before turning right (East) onto a forest track. The forest track follows a stream and I crossed the stream over the first bridge on the track and continue travelling East with the stream now on my right hand side. As the track turns Northwards I found a small faded track through the trees that zig zag up a steep hill to a gate on the North side of the forest. Near the gate was an oar from a rowing boat, strange as this was a place not close to any water deep enough to row a boat. Someone must have carried this here, what must be at least a good couple of miles.
The track leaves the forest and continues climbing in a North Easterly direction. The route I was following travelled in the same direction and on the same bearing. The rain started falling heavy and was unforgiving.
Once I was over the ridge I headed down to where I could see the contours of my map matched the ground over which I was walking. I headed towards the River Douchary which ran through Glen Douchary. I came to an area where there were a couple of dead sheep which I found worrying. Usually if something has just fell over and died it is all still in one place, here the legs, head and other bits of bodies were scattered over a wide area. The only thing I could think of was that some wild animal had killed them and had ripped them to pieces, or it may have been that they were scattered after dying.
Once I was over the ridge I headed down to where I could see the contours of my map matched the ground over which I was walking. I headed towards the River Douchary which ran through Glen Douchary. I came to an area where there were a couple of dead sheep which I found worrying. Usually if something has just fell over and died it is all still in one place, here the legs, head and other bits of bodies were scattered over a wide area. The only thing I could think of was that some wild animal had killed them and had ripped them to pieces, or it may have been that they were scattered after dying.
Staggering over the wild wet countryside in the rain I had difficulty in locating the path. I knew once I reached the River Douchary the track followed it on the far side of the stream, the only thing I could do here was try and find a way across. With the amount of rain the stream was very full and flowing very fast. I found a place below a small water fall which looked to me a good place to cross over to the other side. I did not want to walk any further on this side as the sides were becoming steeper, the water deeper and it looked like I was starting to move further away from the path. It was a case of putting on my gaiters and saying a pray before wading across. The crossing turned out to be not so bad, was it the pray or that I had instinctively found a good place to cross I don’t know, probably the pray.
Once on the far side I followed the thin path along the high edge by the river. A couple of times I nearly tripped in my haste to move along as fast as I could. It would have been awkward if I had fallen and I tried to steady myself and take things more easier. I was just in a hurry to get out of the rain. I followed this path along the edge in a Northerly direction, it turned sharp right then left down a steep slope into a dip into a wood where two streams joined.
This was where I turned right and followed the stream that led in an Easterly direction up to Loch an Daimh. Before I set off I had a quick rest in this dip where a spectacular waterfall fell.
It would have been a good place to camp if the weather had been better. Although looking around there were a number of dead deer. Unlike the dead sheep I saw earlier these were just lying where they had fallen and their bones had not been scattered. It did cross my mind though if these hardy beasts who are used to this type of countryside and weather cannot survive here what chance do I have?
After a quick steep climb up by the stream the wood stayed behind and the ground levelled off. I arrived at Loch an Daimh. I had found throughout the day that in many places it was hard to see the path and often felt I was walking through streams and bogs due to the amount of water lying about. As I crossed to the Loch I thought I was walking up the stream. I found the same as I was walking by the Loch I was sure there were places when I was walking in the Loch and not on the path. The path was in a North Easterly direction with the Knockdamph Bothy at the top end of the Loch. With the rain clouds being low it was making it darker earlier and I started becoming a little concerned about reaching Knockdamph Bothy before it became too dark. I need not have worried, after about another 30 – 45 mins I could see the Bothy. Just as the light faded, I opened the door it was 20.55.
I had a quick look around and decided I would try and light the fire but could not find any dry wood. I just stayed in the main room hung up all my wet gear, had a little food. My rations were now low as I had already eaten the food I had planned to eat tonight. I thought briefly about the people at Camus-luinie who would not let me stay there. Anyway I was glad to be under shelter and in relative warmth. The old gas bottle for my jet boil was not enough to warm any water so I used it to provide a little heat. The thin little blue flame was a little comfort. In a little note book I saw that someone called Deacon from the Toon was here a couple of days ahead of me and was doing well, it had taken him seven days to get here. The only comment I could add in the note book was that the bothy had saved my life.
I calculated I had covered 31km with approx 500m climb in about 12 ½ hours and was soaked to the skin. I had some dry warm clothing, that I put on and after my meagre rations curled myself in my sleeping bag and went to sleep.
More to follow
Details correct at time of walking.
If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.
Follow link to previous - Day 7 Grid NH 065 675 to Dundonnell
Follow link to next - Day 9 Knockdamph Bothy to Grid NC 346 184
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