Cape Wrath Trail - Day 4
Camban Bothy to ditch near Camas-luinie
Distance 29km Climb 550m
Tuesday 13th April 2010
I could not get a signal on my mobile phone all day, so I could not ring and wish my daughter a happy birthday. This played on my mind all day.
It was clear weather with a little mist on the very tops when I woke up. I had a quick breakfast as I packed my kit. The people in the bothy had left, I presume for a days walking and they had not even said bye. I found it strange as normally walkers always talk and are generally friendly and polite. I had not wanted to get in their way or have a relationship.
What a day! When I started walking it was at a very slow pace approx 2 - 2.5kmph. The going was quite heavy plenty of up and down and twisting and turning along a narrow track towards the West.
It was beautiful countryside. The map showed a place called Glenlight Ho which I reached after crossing a couple of small streams. Glenlight Ho was very interesting and had a sign saying that it was the Hadden and Woodburn memorial hut. Hadden and Woodburn were two climbers who lost their lives climbing on Ben Nevis. From Glenlight Ho I was on a vehicle track which headed in a North Westerly direction towards Morvich. On this track my pace increased and I starting moving at about 4 - 4.5kmph, although moving faster it was still quite hard on my feet. The thought that carried me forward was the consolation that I had planned to stay that night at a B&B.
I had a stop just before the Activity Centre near Morvich and looked at my map. It would be approx 3km from the Centre I would need to decide what route I was going to take. At the Activity Centre I turned right heading East for approx 500m before taking a track in a Northerly direction. The track then turns East then North Easterly before you drop down to a bridge that crosses a stream. Through a gate in a deer fence then a short climb into a forestry block and onto a forest track. It was at the top of the track I could either head directly North or turn East on a route shown on my map as Bealach na Sroine towards the Falls of Glomach. I decided to go past the Falls.
Many times on the Trail I would get the feeling of being watched, I could feel eyes on me and I was starting to get a little paranoid. Well more paranoid than usual. It was a strange feeling and it was during one stop on the Bealach na Sroine I found I was right. I was sitting there getting a quick drink of water and looking round I saw her, a young doe looking over the top of the ridge, watching me. It was a strange feeling that I had many times on the Trail and many times I would see deer watching me, peeping over the tops of the ridges.
The countryside was stunning and the sky was clear. Even on the tops I could still not get a signal on my mobile phone. So I was still unable to wish my daughter a happy birthday.
Coming over the pass at the top I followed a narrow path along a ridge line down, heading towards the Falls. Near the Falls I made the mistake of taking the path down to where people would go to see the Falls and although spectacular I had to climb back up with my heavy bag to where the path moved around Westerly down past the Falls. Although it was generally a steady walk in a downward direction I found myself at one point at a very steep drop. Here I had to use some straps that I had to tie to the bag and lowered it down the steep ledge then climb down after it. I felt a bit nervous about doing this, if I had not been careful my bag could have fallen into the deep gap where the Falls fell and I could have joined it. I felt I must have missed an easier track. Looking back at the ledge it must have been about 3 - 4m high. I was annoyed with myself as I am very conscious of safety especially with walking on my own, and I will not put myself in any risk of danger.
Once down the going was a lot easier and after crossing another bridge over a stream I reached a road. Turning left I heading towards Faddock, I was only about 10km from the B&B and so looking forward to a good nights sleep I pushed on as fast as I could. I was walking down the road when I saw a young stag cross and we both stopped to look at each other.
Before Faddock I turned left crossed the stream again then turned right off the road onto a track to Camus-luinie. When I found the B&B it was 20.30hrs, I had been walking 11 hours and covered approx 29k with approx 550m climb over some rough walking and I was looking forward to a good rest. I had really pushed it this day and had used a lot of energy. Before starting the Trail I had e-mailed ahead, the B&B in Camus-luinie had replied that although they would not let me pitch my tent and have my meals they would be happy for me to stay in the B&B. This was not what I really wanted to do so I made a compromise with myself and thought ok, if I could not pitch my tent I would use this as an opportunity to clean up, also charge my phone and camera, by having a night in the B&B.
I knocked on the door, what a disappointment, they would not let me in, even though I had booked. I felt more frustrated than annoyed. I turned away and headed down the road. It was starting to get dark and I needed to rest and have some food. I had pushed myself so much today just to arrive here and then to be turned away. I had also put a few extra kilometres on to arrive at Camus-luinie, what a disappointment, I felt so let down. If I had known this was going to happen I would not have pushed myself as much. A few km along the road I found a ditch pitched my tent and settled down. I prepared some food, food I was reluctant to eat as I had planned to use it later on in the Trail but I needed to eat. Eating it now would leave me short later on.
What a day, after this disappointment, I had the ongoing disappointment of still not get a signal on my phone so that I could wish my daughter happy birthday. Then the zip broke on my sleeping bag and I broke a tooth on a boiled sweet.
More to follow
Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.
If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.
Follow link to previous - Day 3 Tomdoun to Camban Bothy
Follow link to next - Day 5 Camas-luinie to Achnashellach
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