CWT Day 1 - Fort William to South Laggan Locks 10 April 2010.

Cape Wrath Trail - Day 1
Fort William to South Laggan Locks
Distance 33.5km
Saturday 10th April 2010

Number 64 on ITV's Britain's Favourite Walks shown in January 2018. Is the Great Glen Way. This is part of the walk.

I had arrived at the Glen Nevis Campsite the previous evening. I had stayed here after completing my West Highland Way in 2009.

I was late getting away from the Glen Nevis Campsite.  I had wanted to be at Fort William train station for 09.00 am for my breakfast but I was running late as it was 10.00 am when I arrived at the train station for my breakfast.  After a big breakfast and ordering a big sandwich to take with me it was 10.40 am when I started on The Cape Wrath Trail.  I had already walked 3.5-4 km to get to the start.  I was not ready for the weather being so hot and took off my big coat before I started.  The route I followed was the Great Glen Way and it is clearly sign posted.

Start of The Cape Wrath Trail

This route took me up by the series of loch gates called The Neptune Staircase.  By the time I stopped for a cup of tea at a cafe next to the Neptune Staircase I had taken off my tracksuit top and bottoms and I was walking in tee shirt and shorts.

Bottom of the Neptune Staircase

I sat on the bank having a quick rest as a boat sailed past, I waved friendly at the crew sitting looking cold and glum but no one waved back.

They don't look happy, do they? 

I passed three other groups of walkers who were doing The Great Glen Way.  The route is well marked and follows the canals and sides of the lochs.  We would pass and cross each other as we took turns walking and resting.  None of them were going as far as South Laggan Locks.  I am not sure but I had a feeling that South Laggan was half way along The Great Glen Way?

I came across some fallen trees lying across the track and I knew one of the group of walkers had passed me and I wondered how they had got through.  On looking right it would have meant a steep climb down, a climb over the branches then probably a steep climb back up to the track.  Looking left it was much the same a steep climb up the bank, then scramble over roots, followed by a climb down the bank back onto the track.  So I looked at the centre, as I weaved my way through the branches I saw a path had been cleared so I was able to walk straight through.  On the other side of the fallen trees I saw one of the other group of walkers, that had previously passed me.  They said they had walked the round the trees and could not believe I had walked through.  I felt so smug.

How do you get through this?

Approaching South Laggan Locks

I got as far as South Laggan Locks, when I saw a sign for The Eagle a floating restaurant and bar.  I saw the sign just as it was getting dark, I dropped my bag on the deck and almost fell down the stairs, startling the people in the bar.  I got there just in time to order some food, Paul and Janet the owners were great.  I am sure Paul was closing his kitchen but kept it open to serve me, the food was good.  I found out that Paul and Janet were originally from Essex, and therefore a long way from home.  As well as ordering a meal, I also ordered a sandwich which I would keep for breakfast.  It was good talking to the other people at the bar.  There were two Yorkshire brickies who were sailing up and down the Caledonia Canal with their families.  They had done the trip before and had enjoyed it so much they were doing it again.  Really nice people and I would have loved to have stayed up and chatting more but I had had a long day with another long day tomorrow.

I pitched my tent near the lock gates with a warning that the lock keeper may get me up early to move on, if I was in the way.  I could see a mark on the ground where the gates would reach so I pitched it outside so I was not in the way of the gates when they opened.

By my reckoning I had traveled approx 33.5km in about 9hrs 15mins.  About two miles prior to reaching South Laggan Locks I saw a sign which I thought said Tomdoon 10km, it looked like a bit of a climb especially with a heavy bag, but if I went that way it would make me half a day ahead of my plan.

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.  

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to next - Day 2 South Laggan Locks to Tomdoun
Follow link to another walk that ended in Fort William WHW 2012
Follow link to another walk that ended in Fort William WHW 2009