CWT Day 8 - Dundonnell to Knockdamph Bothy 17 April 2010.

The Cape Wrath Trail - Day 8
Dundonnell to Knockdamph Bothy
Distance 31km Climb 500m
Saturday 17th April 2010

I had a good breakfast at the Hotel and a good start to the day, it was still raining but not as bad as the previous evening.  I also took the Hotel up on its offer of a packed lunch.  So I set off back down the road I had travelled up late the previous afternoon.  On the previous afternoon I had identified the track I would be taking this morning that crossed a stream and travelled East along a track over open moor land towards Croftown.  Throughout the morning there were a few times when the weather eased a little and some when it became worse, there was even a few minutes when the sun came out, but this was not for long.

At Croftown I continued East along a road which joined the main road A835. 

Turning left (North) along the main road I travelled just over 1 km before turning right (East) onto a forest track. The forest track follows a stream and I crossed the stream over the first bridge on the track and continue travelling East with the stream now on my right hand side.  As the track turns Northwards I found a small faded track through the trees that zig zag up a steep hill to a gate on the North side of the forest.  Near the gate was an oar from a rowing boat, strange as this was a place not close to any water deep enough to row a boat.  Someone must have carried this here, what must be at least a good couple of miles.  

The track leaves the forest and continues climbing in a North Easterly direction.  The route I was following travelled in the same direction and on the same bearing.  The rain started falling heavy and was unforgiving.  

Once I was over the ridge I headed down to where I could see the contours of my map matched the ground over which I was walking.  I headed towards the River Douchary which ran through Glen Douchary.  I came to an area where there were a couple of dead sheep which I found worrying.  Usually if something has just fell over and died it is all still in one place, here the legs, head and other bits of bodies were scattered over a wide area.  The only thing I could think of was that some wild animal had killed them and had ripped them to pieces, or it may have been that they were scattered after dying.

Staggering over the wild wet countryside in the rain I had difficulty in locating the path.  I knew once I reached the River Douchary the track followed it on the far side of the stream, the only thing I could do here was try and find a way across.  With the amount of rain the stream was very full and flowing very fast.  I found a place below a small water fall which looked to me a good place to cross over to the other side. I did not want to walk any further on this side as the sides were becoming steeper, the water deeper and it looked like I was starting to move further away from the path.  It was a case of putting on my gaiters and saying a pray before wading across.  The crossing turned out to be not so bad, was it the pray or that I had instinctively found a good place to cross I don’t know, probably the pray.

Once on the far side I followed the thin path along the high edge by the river.  A couple of times I nearly tripped in my haste to move along as fast as I could.  It would have been awkward if I had fallen and I tried to steady myself and take things more easier.  I was just in a hurry to get out of the rain.  I followed this path along the edge in a Northerly direction, it turned sharp right then left down a steep slope into a dip into a wood where two streams joined.  

This was where I turned right and followed the stream that led in an Easterly direction up to Loch an Daimh.  Before I set off I had a quick rest in this dip where a spectacular waterfall fell.  

It would have been a good place to camp if the weather had been better. Although looking around there were a number of dead deer.  Unlike the dead sheep I saw earlier these were just lying where they had fallen and their bones had not been scattered.  It did cross my mind though if these hardy beasts who are used to this type of countryside and weather cannot survive here what chance do I have?

After a quick steep climb up by the stream the wood stayed behind and the ground levelled off.  I arrived at Loch an Daimh.  I had found throughout the day that in many places it was hard to see the path and often felt I was walking through streams and bogs due to the amount of water lying about.  As I crossed to the Loch I thought I was walking up the stream.  I found the same as I was walking by the Loch I was sure there were places when I was walking in the Loch and not on the path.  The path was in a North Easterly direction with the Knockdamph Bothy at the top end of the Loch.  With the rain clouds being low it was making it darker earlier and I started becoming a little concerned about reaching Knockdamph Bothy before it became too dark.  I need not have worried, after about another 30 – 45 mins I could see the Bothy. Just as the light faded, I opened the door it was 20.55.

I had a quick look around and decided I would try and light the fire but could not find any dry wood.  I just stayed in the main room hung up all my wet gear, had a little food.  My rations were now low as I had already eaten the food I had planned to eat tonight.  I thought briefly about the people at Camus-luinie who would not let me stay there.  Anyway I was glad to be under shelter and in relative warmth.  The old gas bottle for my jet boil was not enough to warm any water so I used it to provide a little heat.  The thin little blue flame was a little comfort.  In a little note book I saw that someone called Deacon from the Toon was here a couple of days ahead of me and was doing well, it had taken him seven days to get here.  The only comment I could add in the note book was that the bothy had saved my life.

I calculated I had covered 31km with approx 500m climb in about 12 ½ hours and was soaked to the skin. I had some dry warm clothing, that I put on and after my meagre rations curled myself in my sleeping bag and went to sleep.

More to follow

Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 7 Grid NH 065 675 to Dundonnell
Follow link to next - Day 9 Knockdamph Bothy to Grid NC 346 184

CWT Day 7 - Grid NH 065 675 to Dundonnell 16 April 2010.

Cape Wrath Trail - Day 7
Grid NH 065 675 to Dundonnell
Distance 27km Climb 300m
Friday 16th April 2010

I woke early and had some breakfast as I packed my kit.  I now had a good routine going, I would start my jet boil up with a boil in the bag in it warming up as I prepared my cups of tea.  As it was warming up I would pack up my sleeping bag and anything I no longer needed.  Once my boil in the bag was ready I would have my two cups of tea ready, one would go in my flask cup and into my bag for later in the day and the other I would have now.  As I was eating my boil in the bag I would pack my tent and the only things left out would be fresh socks and the tape for my feet.  I would finish off the breakfast as I rubbed my feet for luck, putting on my boots.  Clear away the last bits and pieces finish off my tea, pick up the bag, have a quick look around to make sure I had not left anything and set off.

I checked my distances and confirmed I was about 9 km from Kinlochewe, I had had a good nights sleep and although hungry I felt well rested.  It was lovely weather although a little cold when I set off.  I continued along the path to Loch Fada, this would have been a good campsite and I could see that people had camped here before.  I was glad I hadn't though as there was a very cold wind blowing right across the loch and the area was very open and exposed. 

From Loch Fada to Loch an Nid there is no path to follow except for a compass bearing, which was not really a problem.  Once on the rise I could see the gap in the glen I was heading for.  

At Loch an Nid I found the track on the Eastern side of the loch and followed the path in a Northerly direction beside a stream.  

While researching the Trail I read that I was now moving along a place called Glen Wilderness.  A place that brought out a number of different feelings in people.  I had read that people had found this a place of sadness and unhappiness.  Challenging and wonder.  It was somewhere along this track I felt all these emotions swaying from elation to depression.  On top of all this I broke more off the tooth that had cracked earlier on the Trail on a boiled sweet and that was all I needed to take my feelings into a deeper depression.

At the top of the path there is a T junction with a track.  I turned right and the track initially headed East before heading North, it was a steep climb.  At the top there was a marvellous view back down the glen.  As I was climbing up this track I got a fright.  I had not seen anyone since early the day before and here lying in a dip in the ground next to the track was a man, lying perfectly still.  Why he was there lying like that I do not know.  He told me he was on holiday and staying at the Dundonnell Hotel.  My plan was to pitch my tent and hopefully get some food at the Dundonnell Hotel so I would probably see him later.  However there was still a number of km to travel that day.

Coming over the top from Glen Wilderness the weather which had been fine although cold had changed, the clear sky’s were changing to dark wet clouds and the wind was becoming stronger.  It was a coat on, coat off sort of day, at one point I was even down to shorts and shirt as it was that warm.  

The track passes by a small wood as it slopes down then moves through a forest by another stream before reaching a main road the A832 at a place called Corrie Hallie.  From here there are a number of things I could do however when looking into my route I had looked into calling at the Dundonnell Hotel for food.  This would mean an extra 6 - 7 km on my journey but may be worth it.

Wild goats on the side of the hill near the track down to the road junction

At the road junction I turned left towards Dundonnell.  Just in time for the weather to change for the worse, the rain and wind that had been threatening finally hit, and I arrived at the Dundonnell Hotel like a drowned rat.  On walking into the hotel I made the decision to stay there the night. 

I had covered about 27km with approx. 300m climb in about 9.5 hours.

The rain was lashing on the room window as I tried to sort and dry my kit out.  I also took the opportunity to charge my phone and camera.  After a quick bath I took some time to check and sort out my feet, which needed a good bit of TLC.

After putting on my less smelly clothes, I went to the bar and ordered some food and shared a table with the man I met on the hill.  It turned out he had spent a lot of his childhood in the area and had come for a holiday.  There were a number of places he told me to look out for but as I was only passing through I would not have the chance to see them.  He now lived in Belgium and was concerned about something I had not heard about, an ash cloud coming over from Iceland, apparently it was affecting all the planes.  After some food and a couple of shandys a group of locals came in and took up instruments and started playing, they were very good then for some reason one of them just put down their instrument and walked off, it was a shame as I said they were very good.  I soon went to bed and found it strange trying to settle in a bed after only a few days in my tent.  I could still hear the rain and wind banging on the window and thought I had made a sensible decision.

More to follow



Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 6 Achnashellach to Grid NH 065 675
Follow link to next - Day 8 Dundonnell to Knockdamph Bothy

CWT Day 6 - Near Achnashellach to Grid NH 065 675 15 April 2010.

The Cape Wrath Trail - Day 6
Near Achnashellach Station to Grid NH 065 675
Distance 29km Climb 350m
Thursday 15th April 2010

I knew I was being a bit ambitious planning on being at Dundonnel tonight but I knew I would have to try.  Never mind though I should be there tomorrow and there should be time in my plan to catch up.

After packing up my gear I thought I would have a welcome breakfast at the cafe at Achnashellach Station.  I had seen it mentioned on various websites, so happy in spirit I re-joined the path and followed it down the hill.  Into the Achnashellach Forest, but somewhere along the track I missed the bridge across the stream.  I was nearly half way wading across when I saw the bridge so it was easier going back to the road and crossing by the bridge.  

I then followed a track to the right to an open area near the major stream.  This was a wider, faster stream and although a bridge was shown on the map I could not find it, so I stopped, put on my gaiters and just waded across. By now I was in a hurry to get some breakfast and nothing was going to get in my way.

Across the stream I headed up a track to a building called Lair.  For a change I took a photo of some domestic animals instead of wild deer.  It was only when I looked at the photo later I realised what they were doing.  They were not doing this when I stopped to take the photo so must have taken up the pose when they saw me take out my camera.

At the main road A890 I turned left towards the Achnashellach Lodge and took the path to the left up to the station.  Going up the hill through the houses I arrived at the train station.  It had a sign showing loads of facilities available but none were there.  Apart from a car park 500m away on the road down the hill and a bike stand.  The only facility I used was the bin and that was not on the sign. Sitting having a rest on the platform I could see the cafe and a sign hanging off the gate, I should have guessed, the sign said it was closed.  I should have expected this, how disappointing.

After a rest and a boiled sweet I crossed the train lines and headed down the forest track that headed in roughly a North Easterly direction which was a steady climb.  There was a steep climb through a gap before moving through a small wood.  Out in the open the track levelled off heading North.  The track skirted the east side of a long wood before going down and travelling next to a stream and going in and out, twisting through small clumps of woods, heading towards Coulin.  At Coulin I turned right, towards Torran-cullinn where I took the path in a Northerly direction.  

I was careful here as not all the path is clear through the forest, but I was OK as I soon reached the north east side of the wood.  It was then easy to find the path travelling North on the westerly side of Carn Dhomhnuill towards another large forest.  When I reached this forest most of it had been felled but I could still follow the forest tracks, many of them went up and down.  It would have been best if I had stayed on the outside and followed the edge of the forest to its northern edge.  From the north edge I followed the track North to the main road, A832.  From the road I turned left into Kinlochewe.  

On the Trail I was starting to get a little frustrated with the deer gates.  Although the idea of the gates being to stop the deer many I thought were also to stop people.  With some the opening was very narrow and I had to take off my bag and either lift it through or over them.  Even though I was eating some of the rations the bag appeared not to be getting any lighter.

In Kinlochewe I had a meal at the first pub I came across.  I also ordered a meal in a bag for later.  At Kinlochewe I took the opportunity to have a look in the local store for supplies to replace the rations I had previously eaten, but I could not find anything that I thought would be easy to carry or warm up.  Never mind I did get myself  a new gas bottle for my jetboil.

From Kinlochewe I returned back down the main road A832 that I had came in on, and passed the footpath I came in on, on my right and took the minor road to my left.  The route passed a mast and along a track to the Heights of Kinlochewe.  

Here I took the turning to the left and headed North.

I was now making steady progress and moved on and stopped a little earlier than I would have liked, pitching my tent in the shelter of a large mound.  I pitched my tent here in the shelter as there was a very cold wind blowing down the glen and I was trying to use the mound to keep the cold wind from my tent and it worked.  

The route writer I was currently following had shown that from Achnashellach Station to Kinlochewe as one days walking, I had pushed on about another 9 km to try and catch up with my planed route.  My calculations were that I had covered 29 km with approx. 350m climb in just under 11 hours.

More to follow 


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 5 Camas-luinie to Achnashellach
Follow link to next - Day 7 Grid NH 065 675 to Dundonnell

CWT Day 5 - ditch near Camus-luinie to near Achnashellach 14 April 2010.

The Cape Wrath Trail - Day 5
ditch near Camus-luinie to near Achnashellach Station
Distance 29km Climb 400m
Wednesday 14th April 2010

Today was another long hard day with many highs and lows, not just physically but mentally.  This is a hard walk and I keep reminding myself that was why I chose it.  I ended the day camped approx. 1.5-2 km from Achnashellach Station.  It was 20.00 hrs when I stopped walking.  I could have went down into Achnashellach Station but decided to stop on the hills above.  I thought it would be best to stay up on the hills as I was afraid that the same would happen to me as the previous night.  Were no where would be open and I would have to stay in a ditch again.  The side of this hill I thought would be better, the weather was great I was so happy about that, but what about deer? I had heard that sometimes deer stumble into tents at night.  Today I had covered approx. 29km with approx. 400m climb in about 11.5 hrs.

My day had started with a breakfast from my rations, more food which I had planned to keep for later, I was still smarting from last nights disappointment.  Leaving the ditch I set off North along the road.  After crossing a bridge over a stream I arrived at a crossroads.

Instead of turning left as I had planned I turned right and left my bag out of sight behind a tree and headed towards Kililan where the map showed a phone box.  I thought I would take this opportunity to ring home and wish my daughter a belated happy birthday, unfortunately my daughter had left for college so I still could not wish her a happy birthday.

After my call home I returned to pick up my bag and started walking again.  Once back at the junction where I had turned right I now moved straight ahead back onto my planned route.  After about another 700m I took a track to my right travelling North East towards Nonach Lodge.  After passing a small wood and the farm buildings the footpath I took headed up Glen Ling according to my map.  I was walking next to the stream when more deer crossed my path. All these deer, deer were now starting to become the norm and no longer causing me any excitement.  During the day I also saw loads of lizards, this was interesting as I could not remember seeing any lizards in Scotland before?

The footpath continued North towards a large forested area.  On the way I passed a man working on repairing one of the footbridges that crossed the many streams that were in this area.  At the forest the path headed down hill and was pleasant.  It was now a very warm sunny day and it was nice in the shade.  At the edge of the forest there was a forest track junction.  I turned right onto a track that headed in an Easterly direction.  A short distance from the edge of the forest the track twisted and turned a little up a very steep rise that I found very tiring.  Once passed the rise the going was easier and I was covering about 4 kph.  I passed Bendronaig Lodge and continued along the track.  Looking behind it looked like they were burning off the heather.

As I was passing the Eastern side of the Loch an Lanigh this was where the route took me off the track and I had to follow the edge of the loch in a Northerly direction.  The area was noted as marshy and I had to take care.  Being marshy I was no longer moving as quickly as I had previously however I was still making good progress.

  

There were times I had to jump deep marshy features and I was glad of my walking stick as I could check the depth of some of the bogs.  Moving round those I thought I could not cross or thought too wide to jump.  Not easy going, jumping with a big bag, but for some perverse reason I enjoyed it, perhaps this was because I was off the track.  I headed towards a bothy that my map showed was where I would join another track.

From bothy looking South

From bothy looking East

I decided to stop at the bothy for a quick rest.  I would have liked to have stopped here longer and enjoy the view as I thought the views were stunning but the beast in my head would not let me stop, so after my quick rest I had to push on.

Looking South

The track headed directly North and up then up and up some more.  On reaching the top you could see for miles.

Looking North

Eventually when the track started down it twisted and turned a lot more than shown on the map and eventually I could look down on the area of Achnashellagh Station.  This was where I decided to pitch my tent and stop for the night.  Here I could get a signal and after some food rang home.  Through the day I had made a couple of silly video's and cheered myself up by watching them over and over.  It may have been silly but I could not help but laugh, I thought them so funny.

The writer of the route I was following took 6 days to get here and this was my 5th day.  No wonder my feet, legs, back, and shoulders ache.  According to the route I was following I had covered a total of 136 km.  Over the next few days I think I am going to be off my target but hopefully I will make the distance up and the time back.

View from my tent

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 4 Camban Bothy to Camus-luinie
Follow link to next - Day 6 Achnashellach to Grid NH 065 675

CWT Day 4 - Camban Bothy to a ditch near Camas-luinie 13 April 2010.

Cape Wrath Trail - Day 4
Camban Bothy to ditch near Camas-luinie
Distance 29km Climb 550m
Tuesday 13th April 2010

I could not get a signal on my mobile phone all day, so I could not ring and wish my daughter a happy birthday.  This played on my mind all day.

It was clear weather with a little mist on the very tops when I woke up.  I had a quick breakfast as I packed my kit.  The people in the bothy had left, I presume for a days walking and they had not even said bye.  I found it strange as normally walkers always talk and are generally friendly and polite.  I had not wanted to get in their way or have a relationship.

What a day!  When I started walking it was at a very slow pace approx 2 - 2.5kmph.  The going was quite heavy plenty of up and down and twisting and turning along a narrow track towards the West.

It was beautiful countryside.  The map showed a place called Glenlight Ho which I reached after crossing a couple of small streams.  Glenlight Ho was very interesting and had a sign saying that it was the Hadden and Woodburn memorial hut.  Hadden and Woodburn were two climbers who lost their lives climbing on Ben Nevis.  From Glenlight Ho I was on a vehicle track which headed in a North Westerly direction towards Morvich.  On this track my pace increased and I starting moving at about 4 - 4.5kmph, although moving faster it was still quite hard on my feet.  The thought that carried me forward was the consolation that I had planned to stay that night at a B&B.

I had a stop just before the Activity Centre near Morvich and looked at my map.  It would be approx 3km from the Centre I would need to decide what route I was going to take.  At the Activity Centre I turned right heading East for approx 500m before taking a track in a Northerly direction.  The track then turns East then North Easterly before you drop down to a bridge that crosses a stream.  Through a gate in a deer fence then a short climb into a forestry block and onto a forest track.  It was at the top of the track I could either head directly North or turn East on a route shown on my map as Bealach na Sroine towards the Falls of Glomach.  I decided to go past the Falls.

Many times on the Trail I would get the feeling of being watched, I could feel eyes on me and I was starting to get a little paranoid.  Well more paranoid than usual.  It was a strange feeling and it was during one stop on the Bealach na Sroine I found I was right.  I was sitting there getting a quick drink of water and looking round I saw her, a young doe looking over the top of the ridge, watching me.  It was a strange feeling that I had many times on the Trail and many times I would see deer watching me, peeping over the tops of the ridges.

The countryside was stunning and the sky was clear.  Even on the tops I could still not get a signal on my mobile phone.  So I was still unable to wish my daughter a happy birthday.

Coming over the pass at the top I followed a narrow path along a ridge line down, heading towards the Falls.  Near the Falls I made the mistake of taking the path down to where people would go to see the Falls and although spectacular I had to climb back up with my heavy bag to where the path moved around Westerly down past the Falls.  Although it was generally a steady walk in a downward direction I found myself at one point at a very steep drop.  Here I had to use some straps that I had to tie to the bag and lowered it down the steep ledge then climb down after it.  I felt a bit nervous about doing this, if I had not been careful my bag could have fallen into the deep gap where the Falls fell and I could have joined it.  I felt I must have missed an easier track.  Looking back at the ledge it must have been about 3 - 4m high.  I was annoyed with myself as I am very conscious of safety especially with walking on my own, and I will not put myself in any risk of danger.

Once down the going was a lot easier and after crossing another bridge over a stream I reached a road.  Turning left I heading towards Faddock, I was only about 10km from the B&B and so looking forward to a good nights sleep I pushed on as fast as I could.  I was walking down the road when I saw a young stag cross and we both stopped to look at each other.

Before Faddock I turned left crossed the stream again then turned right off the road onto a track to Camus-luinie.  When I found the B&B it was 20.30hrs, I had been walking 11 hours and covered approx 29k with approx 550m climb over some rough walking and I was looking forward to a good rest.  I had really pushed it this day and had used a lot of energy.  Before starting the Trail I had e-mailed ahead, the B&B in Camus-luinie had replied that although they would not let me pitch my tent and have my meals they would be happy for me to stay in the B&B.  This was not what I really wanted to do so I made a compromise with myself and thought ok, if I could not pitch my tent I would use this as an opportunity to clean up, also charge my phone and camera, by having a night in the B&B.

I knocked on the door, what a disappointment, they would not let me in, even though I had booked.  I felt more frustrated than annoyed.  I turned away and headed down the road.  It was starting to get dark and I needed to rest and have some food.  I had pushed myself so much today just to arrive here and then to be turned away.  I had also put a few extra kilometres on to arrive at Camus-luinie, what a disappointment, I felt so let down.  If I had known this was going to happen I would not have pushed myself as much.  A few km along the road I found a ditch pitched my tent and settled down.  I prepared some food, food I was reluctant to eat as I had planned to use it later on in the Trail but I needed to eat.  Eating it now would leave me short later on.

What a day, after this disappointment, I had the ongoing disappointment of still not get a signal on my phone so that I could wish my daughter happy birthday.  Then the zip broke on my sleeping bag and I broke a tooth on a boiled sweet.

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 3 Tomdoun to Camban Bothy
Follow link to next - Day 5 Camas-luinie to Achnashellach