WHW Day 3 - Inversnaid to Auchtertyre 16 March 2009.

West Highland Way – Day 3
Inversnaid to the Campsite at Auchtertyre 
Distance 25.7km Climb 490m.
Monday 16 March 2009

When I woke I could not decide on whether to do a further 19 miles today or just stick with the recommended 13 miles, I would see how it goes.  I felt ok but I knew I was using up a lot of energy and not eating enough to help sustain the pace I had set.  Anyway it was raining and I had a feeling the rain would be on for the day.  If I had been on one of my normal weekends away I would be home now getting ready for work, instead I was on the side of Loch Lomond packing my tent and equipment getting ready to move off  It was just before 07:30.

View from wild campsite at Inversnaid

The WHW is still following the side of Loch Lomond, parts of the path along here was not easy walking, you are constantly climbing up and down the rocks and tree roots, very tiring especially when you are carrying a big bag.

It was not far past Inversnaid that I saw a sign for Rob Roy's Cave so I thought I would take a few minutes out to go and have a look.  I left my bag and scrambled over quite a lot of rocks but for some reason I could not get any closer than Rob Roys Ave.  No matter which way I went so I gave up wasting time in the rain and moved on.

Rob Roy's Ave

I went back to my kit picked it up and carried on.  The going along here was not easy and the rain was soul destroying.  I reached the bothy at Doune and thought I would take a quick break out of the rain but unfortunately I could not get in.  I could not see a lock and felt that there were people in there who for some reason were not going to let me in.  By this time I had had enough of Loch Lomond and really wanted to get away from it.  The water and rain with the constant never ending noise of the road traffic on the far side of the Loch was starting to get on my nerves.

Last sight of Loch Lomond

I passed the ferry landing at Ardleish, which was very interesting.  To use the ferry you have to pull up the signal then the ferry would come over for you.  It was something like £3.50 each if there was two or more people but double this if you were on your own.  No, I think I will just carry on walking.

Beinglas Farm was the next camp site, I planned to get some water as my supply was now running low.  I would also see about getting some shelter, possibly leave my bag and visit the Drovers Inn.  I had been told about the Drovers Inn, all good, not a place to walk by and miss.  Anyway Beinglas Farm campsite was closed, people were working on the buildings and I thought it best not to leave my bag.  So after filling up my water bottles I walked on to the Drovers Inn.

Drovers Inn! what a place, I could not believe my eyes when I walked in, cases full of stuffed animals, birds eggs, a large stuffed bear, a knight in armour, a shark, an alligator and loads of other fascinating things.  I left my bag in the entrance and went into the bar.  More fascinating things, guns and swords hanging off the walls.  One lad wearing a kilt and a large fleece top was struggling to light a fire in one of the two large fireplaces in the room.  I ordered the soup followed by dinner that was really tasty and just what I needed.  After a couple of pints of shandy I was feeling a lot better and on my way again.  It was such a relief not to be on the side of the Loch any more and the going although still wet was a lot more easier and I could push on at a better pace.

The rain had caused a stream just past Derrydaroch to flood the path so there was quite a bit of water about.  However it did not matter as I was still enjoying The WHW and loving every minute getting some form of strange pleasure out of the experience.  Passing a place called Keilator there was a part of The WHW with a sign saying that the path had been preserved and looked after by some organisation, I cannot remember which.  It was just a patch of mud with cow shit from the sign at one end to the sign at the other that stretched about 1 km.  I reckon someone possibly the local farmers had taken the cobble stones for their own drives or paths.

Cattle were standing on this part of road and they had found a shelter from the rain by standing near a wall that ran by the path.  I had a choice to either walk around them or try and move them from the path.  I first tried walking around them and found that taking a step to the left was deep in shit, taking another step and it was deeper.  I then decided that I would persuade them to move from the path and after a few waves of the arms they moved into the shit, at the end of the day it was theirs why should I walk in it. 

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Anyway once through it there was only a few hundred meters before I came to the crossroads and decided to carry on towards Tyndrum rather than go down into Crainlarich.  I had been told that there was a steep climb down into Crainlarich.  If I had taken this route it would have also included a steep climb back up to The WHW.  It was also a psychological win over The WHW as I was now on the other side of the Harvey Map.  I felt good so pushed on to Auchtertyre campsite.  Fortunately it was still open when I got there, at £6.00 per night.  It was a nice little campsite with showers, kitchen and a little shop with supplies including kangaroo meat.  You paid to use the showers but the electricity and cooking facilities were included.   Unfortunately there was no signal on my mobile so I could not call home and let Anne know where I was.

Before I had started this days walking I wrote in my book that I thought the rain would be on for the day, well it was up until 16.15 when the sun came out and I got its photo.  It was great walking on this part of The WHW through the wood as the colours were so vivid.

The only spot of sunlight all day

At the campsite I met a lad who was running The WHW, he said his legs were tired so he had walked most of today from Rowardenan a total of 25 miles.  I didn't see him pass me unless it was when I was in the Drovers Inn.  

As I was putting my tent up he was on his way into Tyndrum and he asked if I would be going there as well, I thought to myself yeah I’ll be going there in the morning.  A train also passed the campsite as I was setting up my tent and I thought in a few days I will be on that train.    

I was very tired and planned to have a quick snack before going to bed.  Although it was still early I was turning in.  I had had a very exciting day what with it raining, it had been head down arse up and keep moving all day.  Today the first 6 miles were horrendous by the side of the loch.  When it was 18.15 it started raining again, the forecast last week said tomorrow was going to be sunny, lets hope it is.  The map shows today I covered 16 miles 25.7km with 490m climb, a total of 50 miles but if you include Ben Lomond  a running total of 57 ½ miles.  The plan was that tomorrow night I would be at Inveraran a further 12 miles, Wednesday night Kinlochleven an extra 18 miles, with Thursday night Fort William the last 14 miles, leaving Friday for Ben Nevis 12 ½ miles.  At times when I am walking I feel as though I am punishing myself for some reason, no doubt about this I am finding it hard.  My shoulders ache, legs ache, my feet are sore but otherwise I feel good.

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

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Follow link to previous - Day 2 Cashell to Inversnaid
Follow link to next - Day 4 Auchtertyre to Inveroran