Sliema to The Three Cities - Malta 29 Nov 2019

Sliema to The Three Cities and return
Malta
Distance 16.5km Climb 330m
Friday 29 November 2019

I had been looking forward to this walk. Unfortunately Anne fractured her ankle a couple of months ago and so we have taken it easy over the last few days building up to this. Earlier in the week we had walked around the coast to the Sliema Ferry. You can follow this link to see a walk around the Sliema coast from a previous visit to Malta.

Today we were going across the peninsula. There will be other ways across, probably shorter and quicker but we had a reason to go this way. We left Tower Road and turned left up St Francis Street.

At the top a turn left onto Blanche Huber Street. Then at the end of Blanche Huber Street turn right onto Sir Adrian Dingli Street. When the road splits we took the left hand fork, along High Street.

We followed Sir Adrian Dingli Street as it bends round up until we reached the Stella Maris Parish Church.

Just passed the Church we turned right down Cathedral Street. Passing St Joseph's School and Convent. At the bottom of Cathedral Street is the Plaza Shopping Centre. Where Anne had to have a quick look.

Leaving the Plaza Shopping Centre on the Triq it-Torri we turned left down towards the Sliema Ferry and Zara Home for another quick visit.

After a little spend in Zara Home we didn't have long to wait for the Ferry to take us across Sliema Creek and Marsamxett Harbour.

Arriving in Valletta we took the road uphill that turns to the right under the bridge, the Triq San Mark.

The Triq San Mark turns to the left near the top and levels off. Crossing Marsamxett Street, a busy street, we continued along the Triq San Mark where at the top we turned right then left onto Melita Street and continued a gentle climb between the shops, fortunately we didn't stop at any of these shops.

Further along Melita Street we turned right onto Merchant Street, with its pretty Christmas Tree.

In the Pjazza Kastilja we took a few photos as we crossed left towards the Upper Barrakka Gardens. You can follow this link to a walk around the Battlements of Valletta we did on a previous visit to Malta.

Looking across The Grand Harbour from the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Many stunning views across The Grand Harbour, unfortunately I cannot show them all here.

Turning right we headed for the Barrakka Lift and stairs down to Xatt Lascaris. Anne took the lift and I took the stairs.

When we met up again at the bottom we passed under the arch and crossed the road Xatt Lascaris. Walking behind the Customs House we took the gondola across The Grand Harbour to The Three Cities.

The journey across was brilliant, the gondolier was excellent and very proud of where he lives and comes from which was Birgu.

The Three Cities, there is just something about the area that is interesting, fascinating and I wish we had more time to explore further.

Leaving the gondola we had arrived at Birgu near the Freedom Monument. We started just wandering and headed up towards Saint Lawrence. You can follow this link to a walk we had around The Three Cities on a previous visit to Malta.

Continuing upwards we reached Victory Square.

Across Victory Square we headed up Triq La Vallette until we found a small area where we could look across Kalkara Creek.

Turning right we followed the solid walls until we reached a gate.

Through the gate we passed, on our left, steep steps down into a park that would have been a deep defence ditch or moat? Continuing on we reached the Triq San Dwardu where we turned left then left again down towards Il Kalkara. Passing under another large arch  we were heading towards Kalkara Creek.

At the bottom we followed the road around the Creek.

Passed St Joseph Church and continued around the Creek along the Triq Marina.

When the road split we walked along Triq Xatt and the boatyards until we reached the end. We always wondered what this was and checking Google when I got home it shows it as the Esplora Interactive Science Centre.

Thinking about Anne's ankle, although we would have liked to go further we made the decision to turn around. After all we still had to check out Senglea and there was the walk back.

Walking back towards St Joseph Church we stopped for a coffee and a short rest at a nearby cafe.

After our coffee we walked back up the hill through the arch returning to the Triq San Dwardu.

Where we turned right.

Passed the big original gates to the City of Birgu and continued down hill to Galley Creek.

Crossing a modern looking footbridge we took the steep steps up to Triq San Pawl. Turning right we were now in Senglea.

Up the hill and through the big gateway. Following the road we passed the Basilica Church of Our Lady of Victories.

Continuing down the main street, we turned left and took a side street to the City's edge where we could see the dockyards across French Creek. At first we did not spot the giraffe, then it was how could you miss it.

Following the wall round to our left, at the top of Senglea I was going to check out a Geocache in the Gardjola Gardens but the Gardens were closed for maintenance.

We continued around the edge of the City, taking steps down to view The Grand Harbour.

Then more steps down to walk this covered archway. Budgies and canaries sang from cages in the warm air as we passed them by.

Back at the waters edge, Galley Creek, we stopped at a waterside café for further drinks and a sandwich. Enjoying the views across the Creek and the activities of the gondoliers as we had our rest. Across the road from the café there is a monument to Colonel Azopardo born in Senglea in 1772, a hero to the Argentine Navy.

After our refreshment we continued along Galley Creek passing many interesting buildings and boats along the quayside. Old cannons used to tie up the boats.

Until we reached the modern footbridge.

Over the bridge we turned left and headed back towards the City of Birgu. At the top of the bank we headed towards the original gate to the City. We had passed this earlier in our walk. The gate in part is now a War Museum. A group of children/young people were going into the museum as we passed.

Through the gates and bridges we arrived on the Triq Boffa, a sign shows this is the Gate of Provence and we turned left.

Walking down the street we passed the Inquisitors Palace, returning to Victory Square which we had crossed earlier in the day. We turned left down the hill and passed St Lawrence and the Freedom Monument back to where we left the gondola.

We now turned right and headed passed an old building that had been a bakery. Walking passed luxury boats on our left the Creek side and expensive bars on our right.

Just before the tall walls of Fort St Angelo there is a bridge over the moat, I turned down a little side path to find a Geocache.

Back at the road, Anne decided to head back towards the gondola and wait on a seat while I went on. I crossed the bridge over the moat and walked passed the main gate to Fort St Angelo.

Taking the narrow walkway at the foot of the high walls. I followed it around to find another Geocache.

After collecting the Geocache I returned across the outside edge of Fort St Angelo.

Back passed the main gate to Fort St Angelo, over the bridge that crossed the moat and headed along the quayside.

I met up with Anne and we caught the next gondola back across The Grand Harbour to Valletta.

When we reached the Valletta waterfront we walked back to the Barrakka Lift. Anne took the lift and I took the stairs.

Meeting at the top in the Upper Barrakka Gardens we then headed across the Pjazza Kastilja and down South Street.

Continuing down South Street we passed the war damaged Royal Opera House. Further down South Street we found a place to collect some well deserved refreshment.

It was turning dark when we left the drinking establishment.

Unfortunately none of my photos came out very good. Probably just as well as there is no space to show them.

We returned back down to the Sliema Ferry and back to our hotel by the same route we had walked out. We had covered 16.5km with a 330m climb and Anne's ankle had held out. I should add, the distance I have shown is what we walked and does not included distance sitting in the ferries. 

It had been a great walk very interesting, loads of history and information. Still more to check out on our next visit to Malta.

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.
Follow link to my previous walk Victoria Lines (in reverse) 23 Nov 2019

Victoria Lines (in reverse) - Malta 23 Nov 2019

The Victoria Lines (in reverse)
Malta
Distance 10.5km Climb 285m
Saturday 23 November 2019

We have previously walked the Victoria Lines on our visit to Malta in September 2017, walk 7 from the booklet Malta 10 Great Walks. Today we would be walking the route in reverse to the booklet. The booklet advises this walk covers approx. half of the Victoria Lines that run across Malta. 

We got the bus 222 from right outside our hotel, and got off at the Mediterraneo Marine Park where we walked to on our previous walk in Malta.

I wanted to check out a feature I had spotted on one of my maps. So we crossed over the road and walked down to our left. The map shows this area as an old redoubt, which we found is now a restaurant. 

After a couple of photos we turned round and walked back up the road, passing the Mediterraneo Marine Park. It was only when the path ran out we realised we would have to return down the hill a little to the road crossing as there was no other way to get across the road.

Back over the road where we got off the bus, we turned left and walked up the hill. Taking the first junction on our right.

We were on a narrow road walking through a small collection of houses.

At the top of the bank was an old church.

Turning right the road was level along here and after a few hundred meters we passed this grand looking house.

We were walking on memory of our last visit, in reverse, unfortunately memory let us down a little. We turned left and walked up the hill, then a right and as we followed the road round to the left I realised we had missed a turning and we were climbing up to another part of The Victoria Lines not where we wanted to be.

Rather than carry on in this direction we turned round and returned to the grand house and took the path now to our left. We should not have turned left at the grand house, we should have continued straight on. Later when checking a map, the map shows this as a road but it looked like a dirt track.

This was the correct road, continuing on then following the road round to the left.

We could see where we were wanting to go, high up to our left. Another long flat stretch of road and another junction. Turning left onto the Triq it-Targa.

Where we started to climb, up and up. As the road turned right the climb eased slightly, still going up. Care had to be taken as the cars just fly down this stretch of road. After a series of steady climbs we passed the early Christian shrine, I had to have a look in while Anne continued up the hill.

There was a little more climbing before reaching the top of the road.

When I got to the top, Anne was sitting on a wall having a short rest. The wind was blowing a lot stronger on the top. I had a quick look to find the easiest route for Anne, so as not to put any unnecessary strain on her sore ankle. The best way was to take the narrow path down a steep slope.

We could see where we were going.

The steep slope took us to the top of the steep steps.

At the bottom of the steps we would have followed the path by the wall but this tree was in the way so we had a little detour.

Around the tree we returned to the path by the wall.

Down more steep steps, across the top of the wall and climb up again on the other side.

Down to the right we could see the ear.

Near the top some of the steps and stones are missing and so we had to take care, then it was back to following by the wall.

In some places we had to push our way through the bushes. At the top as the wall levels a little we knew we had to find a way across the garrague. In places we could see a path to follow and it didn't take us long to reach the road.

At the road we turned right, over the road there is a massive quarry.

Following the road we reached a large roundabout.

Crossing straight over the roundabout we continued along the road, which is a very busy road, with no pavement.

Fort Mosta came into sight to the right as the road turns to the left. Below to the right a large quarry opened up.

After a few more hundred meters we reached the edge of Mosta and an area of Bronze Age stones.

Bronze Age cart ruts.

Back on the road and after a few more meters, down to our right we could see The Chapel in the Cave, where we walked too on our last Victoria Lines walk. At the top of the far cliff is a statue of the Madonna.

As the road turns starts to turn left we could see Mdina in the distance.

Further around the corner the impressive bridge across the Valley of Honey came into sight.

A little further along the road we could see the Mosta Rotunda, Mosta's Cathedral.

As we passed the bridge we could see groups of people abseiling off it.

Passing the bridge the idea was to find a café, where Anne could rest while I had a walk along the Valley to The Chapel in the Cave. Unfortunately we could not find one so returned back to the bridge and crossed over.

Over the bridge we reached another roundabout, crossing straight over we continued up the road. Where we called into Lidl for a little shopping before crossing the road and dropping down to the Institute of Creative Arts.

A turn down to the left then right and we reached the Victoria Lines. It looked like the area has been cleaned up since our last visit here.

As we walked the Victoria Lines we could hear what sounded like lots of lorries tooting their horns and driving slowly. It must have been in protest and went on for some time.

It was still going on as we reached the road Triq Misrah Ghonoq, we could see a large convoy of lorries down on the Triq Burmarrad.

Reaching the end of the Triq Misrah Ghonoq we looked over the Targa Gap and saw St Joseph with the baby Jesus.

We continued along to the main road Triq Francesco Napuljun t and I turned right to get a photo of the pillbox bus stop.

Then I turned around and we walk up to the roundabout.

Following the road down we crossed the bridge over the Speranza Valley.

Passed the Police Station and the Mosta Rotunda, Mosta's Cathedral. We would spend time to visit this properly another day.

But today we crossed the road for a well deserved cake and coffee at the Cake Box. Before catching a bus to Valletta and a well deserved drink or two.

Anne was still having trouble with her ankle but we had covered 10.5km with 285m climb. It was a nice walk, an interesting walk full of fascinating historical information.

More to follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.
Follow link to my previous walk Exiles Bay to Mediterraneo Marine Park 21 Nov 2019.
Follow link to my next walk Sliema to The Three Cities 29 Nov 2019.