The Pennine Way Day 2 - Grid SK 097 940 to Great Western PH 26 March 2011

The Pennine Way - Day 2
Grid SK 097 940 to Great Western Public House Marsden
Distance 25km
Saturday 26th March 2011

After a good nights sleep I woke up to find it very misty.

After packing my kit and having a breakfast snack I set off at about 0730.  I was high up and the mist made it difficult to navigate.  Using my compass I was walking on the rough bearing of the direction I needed to be moving in.

After about an hour of walking I became disorientated in the mist, fortunately I noticed quite quickly.  Something was telling me I was heading in the wrong direction, somewhere in the mist I had missed the track down to my left.  So I stopped for a short rest, had a drink, checked my map and compass and made a quick evaluation, I got myself back on The Way after about 20 mins.

It was very windy, I was high up and the going was slow.  As I moved down on the side of the ridge called Clough Edge I was moving out of the mist the lower I dropped.  I could see Torside Reservoir to my North.  It always fascinates me seeing a feature on my map coming into sight and how it looks as I move near it then eventually pass it.  Anyway as I moved round the edge the wind changed direction and caught the waterproof cover on my pack, I was borrowing from my daughter.  I had it tied to my backpack but not tight enough as the wind caught the cover and nearly had it over the hill, I automatically without thinking sprinted after it with the heavy bag and I was surprised I caught it.

The Way took me down to the dam that crosses the West side of Torside Reservoir where I sat and rang home.  As I spoke to my wife I was watching people rowing boats on the water, it looked too cold to be out on the water.  The Way then follows the northern edge of the reservoir before heading North, just West of Crowden, this was where I stopped, sat in the shelter of a wall and had some cooked food with a hot drink.  I also took my boots off and gave my feet a rub for luck.

I moved Northerly over Laddow Rocks, Roundhill Moss, Dun Hill in a buffeting wind.  Took a photo of the Black Hill trig point for my spot collection and was heading down the hill before I saw the first people I spoke too all day.  I was looking forward to a quick snack at Snoppy's van on the A635.  Snoopy's van was mentioned in my book as well as on a number of websites I had looked at for my research and so I was looking forward to a warm sandwich, I could almost taste the bacon and a nice cup of sweet tea.

Black Hill

The first people I spoke too, all they could was gasp back a reply 

How disappointed was I when I could not see the van.  To add insult to injury there was a sign on the side of the road saying that in the past this had been the site of a cafe where people had travelled for miles for ham and eggs. After a short disappointing stop I picked myself up and headed on.

On the track heading down to Wessenden I passed a young lad who was interested in doing The Way but said he was worried about carrying and getting supplies of drinking water.  I told him I had planned my days around access to food and water so hope it would not put him off for to long.  At Wessenden I passed a small flock of geese, some deer in an enclosure they did not look like the wild deer I am used to seeing on my wanders.  I was also sure somewhere along this track I saw white rabbits?  Was this tiredness or just imagination?

After the buildings I turned left down a short steep bank before crossing a stream then up a very steep bank, I took this route rather than walk into Marsden.  I followed The Way to Redbrook Reservoir where I followed the western edge to the Great Western public house.  It was interesting walking by the reservoir but all I was interested in was stopping for a meal and some rest.

I finished walking at about 1730 at the Great Western Public House.  I could not believe what I saw hanging on the wall.  It was a buffaloes head and it was massive, it was MASSIVE, I wish I had taken its photo.  I asked Alex the owner of the pub where it had come from.  He could not say only that it was part of the fixtures when he took over the place.  I had planned after an evening meal to move along the road and pitch my tent on the side but Alex informed me that all the land belonged to the Waterways and if I had been seen I would be moved on.

I had been walking about 10 hours and covered approx. 25km.

More to follow


Boz North

Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Pennine Way or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side. 

Follow link to previous - Day 1 Edale to Grid SK 097 940
Follow link to next - Day 3 Great Western PH to Grid SD 967 334

The Pennine Way Day 1 - Edale to Grid SK 097 940 25 March 2011.

The Pennine Way - Day 1
Edale to Grid SK 097 940
Distance 16km Climb 748m
Friday 25th March 2011

I arrived in Edale about 1315 as the train from Sheffield was a little delayed and walked up to the Old Nags Head which had a sign showing that it was the official start of the Pennine Way.

Edale

Edale

My plan was to start walking on Saturday the next day but as the weather had been good and clear I thought I would try and get as far as I could today.

After a lovely meal of ham, eggs and chips and a larger shandy I set off about 1350.

I stopped walking at 1850.  My plan was to go to the Peels Arms Padfield near Glossop it was an extra couple of miles but would have meant a good meal.  However when I got to the junction I could take to Padfield I worked out that it would take about 2 hours and I would arrive too late for any food.  So decided to move a little further along The Way, pitch my tent and have a meal from the rations I was carrying.

Looking at Jacobs Ladder

Top of Jacobs Ladder

Noe Stool

Nearly everyone I had passed that day must have thought they were a comedian as they all made a comment on the size of the bag I was carrying.  Although it was big it was not as heavy as on my last walk.  On this walk I was not as worried about eating rations early as they were plenty of places to stop and pick up food all along the route.  (or so I had planned).

Monarch of the Glen

Old Woman cross roads Pennine Way and Roman Road to Glossop

After setting up my tent and starting my jet boil I tried ringing home but I could not get an answer.  Not to worry I would try again tomorrow.  I settled myself in my cosy socks in my cosy sleeping bag.  The sky was clear and the temperature had dropped, but so far so good.  Even though I had only walked for a few hours I knew that as I had not walked into Padfield near Glossop and had stayed on The Way I was nearly a day ahead of what I had planned.  I will have to see if this continues.

Walking time 5 hours (10 miles) 16 km covered with 748m of climb.

More to follow


Boz North

Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on the Pennine Way or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to next - Pennine Way Day 2 Grid SK 097 940 to Great Western PH
Follow link to another walk across Kinder Scout
Follow link to a walk across Mam Tor joining the Pennine Way near Kinder Low

The Pennine Way (pre the walk)

Pre The Pennine Way

I was sitting on the train travelling from Kinlochbervie to Inverness to meet my wife following my completion of the Cape Wrath Trail.  Although I had had a good rest in the Kinlochbervie Hotel, my feet were still sore and I had all my old aches and pains.  I knew I had lost weight as my smelly clothes just hung loose on me, even so I felt fit.  To complete the Trail in the time I had set myself I had pushed myself really hard.  On my journey South I was thinking of my next personal challenge, I already had a few ideas.  

The next walk that caught my eye was The Pennine Way, I think I was attracted to this walk as it was described as the first official long distance trail in England.  Again as with my previous walks I would need to do some research if I was going to plan and organise my own way of doing The Pennine Way.  My wife was not happy for me to go off again on my own however as before she accepted this was something I needed to do.  

A good place to start my research was the internet.  I also bought a number of books one was the Shell Book of The Pennine Way from a charity book shop in York, it was dated 1968.  I then got a Wainwright picture book on the Pennine Way dated 1988, off an internet site.  For my birthday my daughter bought me a current Cicerone guide by Paddy Dillon, this guide was a very good source of information and I would follow this guide quite a few times during the walk.  It was interesting to see how the old books fitted with the new guides.

I decided to do the route from South to North, starting in Edale walking to Kirk Yetholm.  On this walk there was no need to worry about where I would leave the car, as I had decided to take the train to Edale and use the bus from Kirk Yetholm to Berwick where I was planning to meet my wife.  We were planning to have a couple of days in Berwick before returning home on the train.  

Maps.

I now had a source to get my maps.  The O/S maps I needed according to the Cicerone Guide were 74, 80, 86, 87, 91, 92, 98, 103, 109 and 110.  I got two sets of the maps.  One set I would keep at home the other set I would plan my route on and cut up.  I was against cutting up or marking maps so I was unhappy to do this but as this would save some carrying weight I had no choice. 

Rough Route Plan (possible places to stop or feed).

As with The Cape Wrath Trail I researched a number of places I could stay and feed.  E-mailing ahead to ensure places were open and still provided the service they showed on the internet.

Day 1 Edale to Crowden 18 miles

Breakfast - Home

Lunch - The Nags Head Edale start of The Pennine Way 

Evening Meal - Peels Arms Hotel  01457 852719. 
Follow link to actual Day 1 Edale to Grid SK 097 940

Day 2 Crowden to White House PH 20 miles

Breakfast - Peels Arms Hotel

Lunch - packed lunch

Evening Meal - White House PH.

or Marsden Tunnel End Inn.
Follow link to actual Day 2 Grid SK 097 940 to Great Western PH

Day 3 White House PH to Ponden Guest House 19 1/2 miles

Breakfast - White House PH

Lunch - packed lunch 

Dinner - Ponden Guest House
Follow link to actual Day 3 Great Western PH to Grid SD 967 334

Day 4 Ponden to Gargrave 17 miles

Breakfast - Ponden Guest House

Lunch - passing a number of PH

Evening Meal - Gargrave
Follow link to actual Day 4 Grid SD 967 334 to Gargrave

Day 5 Gargrave to Horton-in-Ribblesdale 22 miles

Breakfast - Gargrave

Lunch - places in Malham

Evening Meal - Horton-in-Ribblesdale

possible places to stay Holme Farm 01729 860281
Follow link to actual Day 5 Gargrave to Grid SD 853 722

Day 6 Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes 15 miles

Breakfast - Tea Shop, Horton-in-Ribblesdale

Lunch - packed lunch

Evening Meal - PH in Hawes
Follow link to actual Day 6 Grid SD 853 722 to Hawes

Day 7 Hawes to Tan Hill Inn 17 miles

Breakfast - Cafe in Hawes

Lunch - Kearton Tea shop or Keld Tea shop

Evening Meal - Tan Hill Inn 01833 628246
Follow link to actual Day 7 Hawes to Tan Hill Inn

Day 8 Tan Hill Inn to Middleton-in-Teesdale 18 miles

Breakfast - Tan Hill Inn

Lunch - packed lunch

Evening Meal - PH Middleton-in-Teesdale

possible place to stay Dale View Caravan Park 01833 640233
Follow link to actual Day 8 Tan Hill Inn to Middleton-in-Teesdale

Day 9 Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton 22 miles

Breakfast - Cafe in Middleton-in-Teesdale

Lunch - packed lunch

Evening Meal - Stag Inn Dufton

possible place to stay Grandie Caravan Park 017683 51573
Follow link to actual Day 9 Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton

Day 10 Dufton to Alston 20 miles

Breakfast - Youth Hostel Dufton

Lunch - Packed lunch 

Evening Meal - PH Alston

possible place to stop Tyne Willows Caravan Site 01434 382515
Follow link to actual Day 10 Dufton to Alston

Day 11 Alston to Greenhead 17 miles

Breakfast - Cafe in Alston

Lunch - Packed lunch

Evening Meal - Greenhead Hotel 016977 47411
Follow link to actual Day 11 Alston to Greenhead

Day 12 Greenhead to Bellingham 21 1/2 miles

Breakfast - Cafe Greenhead

Lunch - Packed lunch

Evening Meal - PH Bellingham
Follow link to actual Day 12 Greenhead to Bellingham

Day 13 Bellingham to Byrnes 16 miles

Breakfast - Cafe Bellingham

Lunch - Packed lunch

Evening Meal - The Byrnes Hotel 01830 520231

possible place to stay Border Forest Caravan Park 01830 520259
Follow link to actual Day 13 Bellingham to Byrness

Day 14 Byrnes to End?

Follow link to actual Day 14 Byrness to Hen Hole Mountain Rescue Hut

Follow link to actual Day 15 Hen Hole Mountain Rescue Hut to Kirk Yetholm 

Kit List
Tent	Headache Tablets	Jacket	Knife
Bag	Thermos cups x2	Gloves	Pencil
Rations	Toilet paper	Hat	Notebook
Tea/Sugar/Milk	Spoon	Stick	Wet wipes
Sleeping bag	Boots	Camera	Softy jacket
Bivi bag	Socks	Bino's	Gaiters
Roll mat	Waterproof socks	Phone	Spare socks
Rain cover	Tracksuit trousers	Money	Spare underpants
First Aid Kit	Vest	Cash card	Spare t/shirts
Matches/lighter	Shorts	Torch	Foot powder
Stove	Underpants	Compass	Spare batteries
Gas	Shirt	GPS	Whistle
Trainers	Camel pack	Mess tins	Bungies
Waterproof trousers

More to Follow

Boz North

CWT - Cape Wrath to Sandwood Bay 21 April 2010.

Cape Wrath Trail - After The Trail Day 12
Cape Wrath return to Sandwood Bay
Distance 13km
Wednesday 21st April 2010

After arriving at the Cape Wrath lighthouse I was concerned that there were only 3 hours of daylight left and it had taken me 5 hours to get here.  Since I had started on The Trail I had seen daylight hours getting longer but still there may not be enough for me to get back to my tent.  I was not very happy with myself due to the time it had taken me.  So after a couple of quick photos I headed back to my tent along the cliff path.  Wondering why did I not come this way in the first place.

If I had I would have had plenty of time, as it was I felt I was racing against the sun coming down.  Not for the first time on this walk I was frustrated with myself that I did not have the time to just sit and enjoy the beauty that I found myself in.

As I travelled along the cliff path, at times running, I could see the sun coming down.  I was sprinting against the setting sun.  I did not want to be wandering about on the cliffs in the dark with no kit.  After a while I would reach a rise and expect to see Sandwood Bay below only to see another rise ahead of me. The sun setting was brilliant with the colours on the hills being especially vivid. I saw herds of deer running majestically across the side of the hills, beautiful.


Then finally there below me was Sandwood Bay the beach stretching out in front of me. I stopped and filled my water bottles at a stream before reaching the bottom of the hill.  I crossed the river and stepped onto the beach just as the sunlight disappeared, I felt very tired but relieved.  After a slow walk along the beach dragging my stick and my full water bottles I saw the stone I had noted where I had to turn for my tent.  As I reached the rise of the sand dunes I suddenly heard a voice asked if I was OK? from a tent that I had not seen.  He told me I was not far from my tent.  I was almost on my knees when I reached my tent.  I started my jet boil and had a well deserved meal and settled down for the night.  Tomorrow I would have a lie in.

All that was left was a slow walk back the 13km to Kinlochbervie.  Even in the cold light of day when I reflected on the distance I had walked I still had no sense of achievement. 


More to follow



Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done in Scotland or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to my last day on Cape Wrath Trail - Day 12 Kinlochbervie to Cape Wrath

CWT Day 12 - Kinlochbervie to Cape Wrath 21 April 2010.

Cape Wrath Trail - Day 12
Kinlochbervie to Cape Wrath
Distance 28km
Wednesday 21 April 2010

I felt quite smug with myself as I packed my kit and walked back up the road towards the Kinlochbervie Hotel for breakfast.  Today was the day I was going to reach my goal.

I had a full Scottish breakfast and even ate the black pudding which I don’t like, for I knew I would need all the energy I could get to not only finish the Trail but to get back to Kinlochbervie for transport to Inverness.

From the hotel I walked the minor road North through Oldshoremore to Blairmore.  

At Blairmore I turned right onto the track towards Sandwood Bay.  The sky was clear and beautiful.  

The route was well marked for people who must just come up to see the sands.  This was a little disappointing as I had expected it to be a little more remote.  On my way up the road the John Muir warden passed me with a trailer on the back of his van with what could have been a deer.  I remembered that he had told me the previous night that I may not get to Cape Wrath as the military were firing.  I told him that I had checked this out before leaving home and they had said there would be no firing on the two day window I had given myself to reach Cape Wrath.  He had looked doubtful.  Anyway I was committed now, this was the second day and therefore the last day I could reach Cape Wrath.  He gave me a wave and a smile as he drove passed.

   

The walking was pleasant  and I started thinking this was not too bad.  On the path I got my first glimpse of the Cape Wrath lighthouse.  

I found an ideal sheltered place to pitch my tent in the sand dunes behind the beach of Sandwood Bay.  I left my big bag, took my phone to ring home, map and compass, some water a few sweets and some money for the Ozone cafe, travelling light I set off.  Must not forget I also took my trusty stick.  It was really cold and the sand of Sandwood Bay felt cold and hard as stone.  I made a mental note of one of the rocks as a marker to my tent.  The sands of Sandwood Bay were beautiful and it deserved its credit as one of the top beaches in the world.  I walked to the North Easterly part of the beach and crossed the stream over into MOD land. 

For some reason which I cannot explain, I did not follow the route along the coast.  I set off across country, in a very haphazard route on the Eastern side of the coastal hills.  Which turned out to be a mistake as it was up and down, crossing streams, walking round, jumping and climbing in and out of bogs.  To eventually end up on the northerly road a good few km from the Cape Wrath lighthouse.  I was really annoyed with myself.  When I eventually arrived at the lighthouse I calculated it had taken over 5 hours from Sandwood Bay, now there was only approx 3 hours of day light left.  If I had followed the route along the coast I would have been well on my way back to my tent now.  Why I did it I cannot explain, anyway too late now, no time to hang around.  I had arrived with no sense of achievement or elation, this was the end.  The Ozone Cafe was shut and looked as if had been for some time, even though it was shown on a few web sites.  On top of that I could not get a signal to ring home.  

  


I had walked 28km, the total distance I had covered was 355km.

More to Follow


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 11 Kylesku to Kinlochbervie
Follow link to Cape Wrath to Sandwood Bay

CWT Day 11 - Kylesku to Kinlochbervie 20 April 2010.

TheCape Wrath Trail - Day 11
Kylesku to Kinlochbervie
Distance 40km
Tuesday 20^th April 2010

At breakfast when everyone is sitting politely talking to each other.  I got into conversation with a couple of bikers from Southport, who was touring around the western side of Scotland.  I remembered them passing me yesterday as I came onto the road 4km South of Kylesku.  After they left talking to another couple who were up there on holiday.  It turned out they were from Gosforth and came up to this area quite a lot.  I mentioned that I thought I was getting too old to punish myself like this and Mrs said of course I was not. 

They were planning on trekking to the Everest base camp later in the year for a 60^th birthday.  I thought when you are on your trek you will have Sherpa’s carrying your kit.  I was carrying everything myself.  Anyway I wish them well and hope they did it, as individuals we all of us each have our own goals and challenges.  Mr had walked a lot in this area and so he showed me a number of interesting places on my map.  It was good to talk to him.

From the hotel I walked West along the side of the loch and up some steps to the road bridge.  The road bridge was relatively new and had replaced a number of ferries that crossed from Kylesku.  On the far side of the bridge there was a memorial for all the people who had died sailing in midge submarines.  The area had been a training ground during the war and the Kylesku Hotel had pictures of many of the crews hanging up in tribute to their bravery.

I stayed on the main road to Kylestrome where after passing the end of a small wood I turned right onto a track that was a steep climb from the start.  The track headed in a North East direction towards Achfary Forest.  Going over the track it was very windy and cold I had every kind of weather but the wind was a constant, mainly blowing in my face.  As I looked behind I could see Kylesku becoming smaller.

At Achfary Forest the track drops down into the relative shelter of the trees before arriving at the main road A838 near Lochmore Lodge.  Turning left at the main road I headed North West.  I had originally planned that at Achfery I would take the track called Strath Stack but decided when looking at my maps the previous evening to just stay with the road.  I tried to ring home from the phone at Achfary but it would not take coins only card, strange I thought.  Who would have thought of buying a phone card in the middle of nowhere.  

Anyway walking along the road at times the wind was that strong I could not see where I was going as I had my hat pulled down to protect my face and my hood fastened around my head. Many a time I stood and shouted at the wind to stop and give me a break.   There were snow showers, sleet showers, rain showers and sunny spells.  Sometimes I would get all of them at once.  I was now on my OS map 9 Cape Wrath that one of my sons had bought me for Fathers Day the previous year.

At Lochstack Lodge I had previously planned to turn off the road and walk round the bottom of Sail Mhor.  However due to the struggle and weariness I still felt from the previous day I thought it would be sensible to stick to the road although this was not what I had wanted to do.  The road was an easy route to follow, turn right at Laxford Bridge and follow it to Rhiconich.

Looking back on the day it was a good day walking especially after the problems I had had the previous day.  On this day I needed to reach at least as far as Rhiconich.  So instead of walking off route and overland as I had planned, I stuck to tracks and roads.  It was not what I had wanted to do but this was the only way I was going to finish in the time I had set myself.

Walking on the road was hard on my feet but I was at least covering the distance.  At one point when I stopped at Laxford Bridge I felt the eyes on me again and as I looked around I saw a young deer looking at me over a ridge.

 

I could not believe it when I arrived at the Rhiconich Hotel in time for an evening meal.  Today I had eaten plenty of food and felt well rested and the troubles from the day before were only a memory.  As I ordered my food three young walkers came in and we discussed The Cape Wrath Trail.  They said they had passed me in the car, and had read my note in the Knockdamph Bothy and said they were walking the Trail.  Which I found hard as how could they have passed me in their car if they are walking?  Strange but as I say we all have our own challenges and deal with them in our own way.

They had planned to stay in the hotel that night but as it was still light and the weather was pleasant now that the wind had died down I decided to move on a few extra km.  As I crossed the road to take the B801 towards Kinochbervie a warden from the John Muir trust pulled up in his van and offered me a lift.  I politely refused it as it would not have been right to take a lift. Anyway I carried on and planned to wild camp somewhere along the road.

The sunlight was beautiful as it lowered in the sky and the views were stunning.  I looked at a couple of places to stop but for some reason or other I did not.  Before I knew it I was in Kinlochbervie just as the light faded and headed up towards the hotel with an idea that I would ask if I could pitch my tent there.  As I was walking up to the hotel, I saw something flash across the road in front of me, it was a deer, within seconds the John Muir warden was pulling up in his van.  He suggested a place where I could pitch my tent but it meant I would have to go in his van and he took me back down the road.  On reflection I am sure he just wanted me off the roads in that area.  

He told me that deer had been causing problems in that area and he had already shot one and wounded the other.  Apparently that was the one that I had seen.  I think he had just wanted me out of the way of any further shooting.  Never mind I pitched my tent tied it to a couple of large stones as the wind looked like it was getting up again and settled down for a good night sleep with the thought that tomorrow I would reach Cape Wrath.  I had covered 40km in about 11.5hrs.

More to follow

Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The Cape Wrath Trail or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 10 Grid NC 346 184 to Kylesku
Follow link to next - Day 12 Kinlochbervie to Cape Wrath