WHW Day 5 - Inveroran to Kinlochleven 18 March 2009.

West Highland Way - Day 5
Wild Camp near Inveroran Hotel to Blackwater Campsite Kinlochleven
Distance 29km Climb 744m
Wednesday 18 March 2009

I packed most of my kit ready to set off before I went for breakfast at the Inveroran Hotel.  While I was packing one of the Rastafarians came down to the campsite and we talked, we spoke of the possibility of fish in the stream. I am not sure if there would have been any fish this far up the stream. Breakfast was interesting, they were all there.  The other three campers, the two team leaders, the two Rastafarians and the doctor.  The doctor was told to go and do his meditation while the chief Rastafarian had his breakfast.  Someone had been playing games with the boots and the people staying in the hotel thought they had all been taken.  It turned out the hotel owners were drying them out.

Wild Campsite near the Inveroran Hotel

After breakfast I filled my water bottles, finished packing my kit and set off.  The weather although cold was dry and lovely for walking. While on The WHW after a short time I was passed by the team leaders.  I was carrying everything, all they had were a few sandwiches and possibly a change of clothes and so they were flying along The WHW.  As they passed they were too busy talking to each other and so they missed the big stag.  There he was standing about 700 meters from the track just looking at us.  The team leaders striding along and me puffing and panting up the hill.  The countryside was wide, open and beautiful.

Stag just looking 

While walking along I was sure I could hear the swirl of the pipes, was this my imagination or was it the wind blowing through the grass and heather?

Blackrock Cottage

On the path near Kings House I passed the famous Blackrock Cottage, famous as seen on biscuit tin lids, calenders and chocolates.

For lunch I stopped at Kings House and I saw the wild campsite there, on looking at it I thought it was poor, it was on a steep slope next to the stream.  I was so glad I did not stop here.  While eating my lunch a French couple arrived and it took them ages to decide what they were going to eat. Then it took them ages to decide where they were going to sit, and I thought I was indecisive.

After leaving the Kings House after a lovely lunch The WHW is quite flat until it reaches the Devils Staircase.  Just before I got there I met a couple who asked me if I could give them directions to some place I had never heard of, or could find on my map, they were lost.  Then he asked me if I could show him on my map where I thought I was, where I thought I was!  Just like a school teacher to a little boy, what a cheeky chap, for want of a better word.  I knew exactly where I was, he did not know where he was or where he was going.  Anyway being helpful I showed him where we were and I also told him where the Kings House was and that he could get some food there, he then questioned me about it being open.  What a prat.

Heading towards the Devil Staircase

Devils Staircase

It was as expected a slog up the Devils Staircase but the views were great.  I sat for a while and enjoyed the rest.  The walk into Kinlochleven was hard, my feet were tired and sore.  At times throughout the day I was covering 3 miles an hour.  Walking down the bank into the town after the peace and open space I had enjoyed and had been walking across in the last day.  I was now greeted with dogs barking, children shouting and police sirens.

I walked into the Blackwater Hostel Campsite at the entrance to the town, there was only one other camper.  Great facilities, I used the showers after setting up my tent then had a walk around the town looking for food.  I went into the local pub and met up with the two team leaders.  This was when I found out that they were travelling alone and what nice lads they were.  They were doing The WHW and staying in bed and breakfast and told me they had started with other friends who they left at Crainlarich with a lot of their equipment.  I left them and had some fish and chips, followed by a good night sleep.

I had covered 18 miles 29km with 744m climb.

More to follow

Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The West Highland Way or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 4 Auchtertyre to Inveroran
Follow link to next - Day 6 Kinlochleven to Fort William

WHW Day 4 - Auchtertyre to Inveroran 17 March 2009.

West Highland Way – Day 4 
Campsite at Auchtertyre to Wild Camp near Inveroran Hotel 
Distance 19.3km Climb 330m
Tuesday 17 March 2009.

It was very frosty when I woke, ice had formed not only on the outside of the tent but also on the inside of the outer tent sheet.  When I was waiting for the kettle to boil in the kitchen area I had an opportunity to talk to the lad who was running The WHW.  He had started on Sunday morning at Milngavie and his first stop was near Rowardennan youth hostel, he had made arrangements to have his bags collected and delivered along the route.  He said that during the previous day his legs had become sore and he hadn't ran as much as he should, he also said he was starting to think he had bitten off more than he could chew.  He had planned to be in Kinlochleven the Tuesday night but felt he would only make it if his legs improved.  We talked about the route so far and discussed the shitty path, I was surprised when he told me that he walked around the cattle and said he went in past his knees.  He was only wearing short walking shoes.  I had to laugh as there was no way I was going to walk through their shit, I made them get out of my way.  Anyway he offered to do me some breakfast which I politely declined as I had planned to have a big breakfast at the Green Welly Stop in Tyndrum.  I never saw him again and wondered if he did complete The WHW? I hope so.

Iced Tent

Leaving the Wigwam campsite at Auchtertyre the sky was a clear blue and promised a good day walking.  The mist and cloud were leaving, as I made my way along The WHW to Tyndrum.  Everything was just right, I felt so alive, so happy. 

Things were changing not only with the weather, the views were a lot better, but also the people seemed to be a bit more friendly and more inclined to talk.  Workmen on the rail tracks near the river said hello, it was as if I had entered another world.

On the outskirts of Tyndrum you pass an area of ground that is barren, apparently this is due to the iron ore works that was on the site a few hundred years ago and even now still nothing grows there, very interesting.  I have driven through Tyndrum a number of times in the past but this was the first time I had come in on foot.  I was surprised at how large it was.  I took a photo of a grand building thinking it was the train station.  It turned out to be a hotel, I didn't think about it until later when I realised but I was on the distribution list of that particular chain of hotels I should have stayed the night there and stayed in a bit of comfort.  Well maybe not, as it would spoil my whole experience.  When I saw the train station it turned out to be no bigger than a bus stop.  I took its photo thinking I would be passing through here on my way home.  Later I found out I was standing at the wrong station and that there are two train stations in Tyndrum.

Where is the Lost Sword

There it is

When I reached the Green Welly Stop I stopped.  I sometimes mistakenly call this the Yellow Welly, I cannot explain why.  Anyway I had a big bowl of porridge with a bacon sandwich and a cup of tea,mm mm mmm.  Things were getting better.

From here it looked as though The WHW had changed as well, instead of being a long wandering route around features it had changed to be a more direct route cutting across the glens.  Now the train line and roads meandered around the edges of the glens.

The going was great now, there were times I was now covering 2.5 miles an hour.  Just before I reached the Bridge of Orchy I pulled a muscle in my left shin.  This has now included my calf but it has not slowed me down.  A good rest will help put it right.

I stopped at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel for lunch.  It has a sign on the door saying walkers welcome and they did make me feel welcome, very welcome in fact.  I left my bag in a room at the front of the hotel and walked into the restaurant.  They were no tables set and as I went in I was followed by a waiter with a tray carrying, knife, fork spoon and linen napkin, not a paper hand tissue.  I was being looked after like royalty.  I must have looked like a proper scruff, unshaven, baggy track suit bottoms, smelly baggy tea shirt, baggy jacket and battered old army boots.

I switched on my mobile to see if I could now get a signal, I could so I rang my wife but got no reply, this was the first time I had rang since Sunday, so I needed to let her know I was safe.  I got a call back just as I was eating my soup, the waiter thought I had finished so tried to take my bowl away, bad move.  Anyway the food was gorgeous, haggis neaps and tatties very very tasty.  As I was eating some other people came in for a meal, it turned out they were originally from Sunderland, they had moved to this part of Scotland about 17 years before and would not go back to Sunderland.  When I mentioned where I was from they knew it well.  I had come all this way and here I was talking to people who had lived less than 6 miles from my home.

On paying my bill I was talking to the waiter at the bar and he told me that the owners son had done The WHW in the West Highland Way Race were he came 3^rd with some ridiculously fast time.

For most of the day I had followed a couple along The WHW from Tyndrum, after my lunch at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel they were now following me.  Most of the path from the Bridge of Orchy took me through a wood.  A group of walkers came the other way, see nobody all day then you see at least 6 at once.  I followed the couple onto a rise that looked onto Inveroran.  

What a fantastic view, everywhere I looked was so awe inspiring.  I then followed the couple into the Inveroran Hotel, they had tea and cakes,  I had a shandy.  What a lovely couple, they had a camper van and were doing The WHW in parts.  They had left the camper van at the Bridge of Orchy, then had taken the bus into Tyndrum and walked  back to the Bridge of Orchy then onto Inveroran.  Their plan was to walk back to the camper van along the road, stay there tonight.  Tomorrow depending on buses they would start at Kingshouse or Kirkleven and walk back this way so I hoped I would meet them again.  I think they must have felt sorry for me because they gave me some of their cake.

After they had left the Inveroran Hotel another chap turned up, who was walking the Munros.  He said he had already done a lot of them over on the East of Scotland when one morning he worked out that he only needed to do 50 and he would have completed them all.  He decided to stay in the Tyndrum area to do as many as he could in this area.  When I saw him he said that he now had about 20 to do and by the end of this week it would be down to the teens.  He told me that day he had set his camera up on the top of a Munro he had climbed that day and took a photo of a dog that belonged to a policeman standing on a snow cornice.  He told me he had even placed biscuits to entice the dog onto the cornice.  I may be wrong but I think it was the fact that a snow cornice was unstable and the dog could have fallen through it excited the chap.  A few months later in the newspaper there was a photo of a policeman’s dog who had completed all of the Munros.  I wondered at that time if this was the same dog.  The chap I had met in the bar was an interesting fellow to talk to and I wished I had stayed longer but at that time my priority was to get my tent up and try and dry it from the previous night’s frost.

As I came out of the hotel and was walking to the wild campsite along the road I saw three deer running across the road with at least another half dozen on the other side of the road.  It was great.  At the wild campsite I laid all my kit out to dry and was writing up my notebook, While day dreaming, wondering what to write and looking at the local wagtail and a chaffinch that appeared to be following me.  I saw something I did not expect to see.  Walking down the road with a distance between them were two Rastafarians with dreadlocks, Bob Marley beards and the green, red and yellow Ethiopian hats, with another fellow following.  The first man asked had I seen any deer, I thought he meant the ones I saw earlier but he pointed to at least another 20 – 25 other deer that were just over the wall from my campsite.  Curious about my accent they asked where I was from and when I said Tyneside one of them knew Newcastle as he had been to Newcastle University.  They were from Liverpool and knew Ormskirk where one of my sons lived.  Very interesting people to talk to and the deer they pointed out, were a magnificent sight.  Apparently I would see the three men in the morning as they were staying at the hotel where I had ordered my breakfast.

As I was packing my stuff away and set up my campsite, I noticed the deer moving up the hill, just as another three lads turned up and set up camp on the other side of the road.  As it was getting  dusk and I was eating I noticed that the deer were now in the next field, amazing.

In the hotel that night where I went for a couple of pints I saw the three lads from the other tent and two other lads.  From their talk I got the impression that they were all together on some kind of team building event.  One lad gave me the impression of being the leader, asking all sorts of questions.  I sat in the corner Billy no mates quietly having my drinks.  As I came out of the hotel standing no more than ten foot way were two stags.  They were only young but what a sight.  I told the team builders and they made such a racket coming out to see the stags, I thought they may have scared them off, fortunately they did not.  

During the night I heard a noise outside my tent. Silhouetted against the night sky I could see a big stag no more than a few yards from my tent.  I tried to get a photo but it was just beyond the flash.  Magnificent.

Today had been the best so far, 12 miles 19.3km with 330m climb. 

More to follow.


Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The West Highland Way or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 3 Inversnaid to Auchtertyre
Follow link to next - Day 5 Inveroran to Kinlochleven